This Top-10 list of great-sounding solid-state and vacuum-tube amplifiers includes headphone amps and vintage models. Most are light on features, so if you need autosetup, GUI menus, AirPlay, iPod /iPhone/iPad compatibility, home networking, HD Radio, Bluetooth, HDMI switching, digital-to-analog converters, Dolby and DTS processors, that's not the main plan. The focus is on amps that provide the maximum sound quality for a minimal investment, but I included one receiver with some of those goodies.
I'll do a top-10 affordable speaker list soon.
Dayton Audio Amplifier DTA-1 ($ 40)
It weighs almost nothing, looks cheap and fragile, but Dayton Class T amps have developed a strong following for a very good reason: people really love the sound. The DTA-1 puts out 15 watts a channel and has a mini 3.5 mm analog input jack on its rear end. It is also nice and low, just 2 inches by 6.3 inches by 3.3 inches. The DTA-1 T-amp can run on 8 AA batteries or the included power supply.
Electric Avenues PA2V2 portable Headphone amplifier ($ 60)
Gary Ali built by hand more than 8,000 portable pocket amplifiers since 2004. He now sells the Version 2 model, the PA2V2, for $60, and that price includes shipping charges (he's in Toronto). You can use the amp with a laptop, TV, radio, iPod, MP3 player, or gaming system. I used the PA2V2 running off my iPod Classic's line-out multipin connector, with a CablePro Right Angle iPod Dock to 3.5mm plug. It sounds amazing for the money!
NAD 3020 Integrated Amplifier (used prices range from $50-$300)
I recently bought a 31-year-old NAD 3020 integrated amplifier on eBay for $66. It was rated at just 20 watts per channel into 8 ohms, but it can deliver as much as 58 watts into 4 ohms, and 72 watts into 2-ohm speakers! I doubt any of today's $1,000 receivers can handle low impedance (4 or less ohm) or difficult to drive speakers as well as the 3020 can. It has a terrific-sounding phono preamplifier, so the 3020 is ideal for serious vinyl buyers on a budget.
Welcome to the DIY Audio Projects Message Forum. Use these forums to discuss and ask questions related to Hi-Fi audio and to share your audio projects. Registration is free and required to post messages and view file attachments. Registration only takes a minute and registered users do not see any advertisements . After you have completed the online registration, check your email (spam folder) for the verification email to activate your account. New members are under moderation - so your posts will not be visible until approved by a moderator. See the Read Me 1st, Forum RULES and Forum FAQ to get started on the forum.
Thanks goodness I know a little bit about tubes. So I upgraded both of them big bigtime for minimum cost. When I say " ungraded " I really meant it. Unlike so many so called 'upgrades' of ST-70s out there done by replacing the entire PCBs with 'alient' designs, rebuilding them into something else rather than retaining Dynaco traditional design. Output transformers are fair but no match for modern types such as Lundahl . The driver stage is the achilles heel and the 7199 should be ditched at the earliest possible opportunity , same goes for the biasing circuitry which should have every part replaced including pots . The Vacuumstate PP1C differential cascode input stage makes a good driver stage as does a 6EM7 in the same input/concertina style as the 7199 . I have heard a ST70 that was modded to accept 5U4G rectifier , 6B4G in cathode bias and a 6C45 driver stage with Lundahl 1660 phase splitter IT . This sounded very good , in fact the best sounding modded ST70 I have heard to date Lowther PM7 is approx 96dB 1w/1m . That is more than adequate for normal listening levels even from a 1 watt amp . From a 2A3 amp there is 3.5 watts available , so there is plenty of headroom assuming loud is 90dB at the listening postion .